Sunday, January 27, 2008

Kyoto (1 - 2 Jan 2008)

We were near to collapsing under the weight of our bags by the time we checked in at Hotel Matsui (ホテル松井) (Rokaku Dori Takakura Higashi Hairu, Nakagyo-ku,Kyoto-shi,Kyoto-fu). We were greeted with cinnamon snacks and sake at the reception area, and even won a small gift in a lucky draw. The smiling hotel staff carried our bulging luggage up to our traditional Japanese room. This is what we paid good money for (17420 yen to be exact)!

Once we had dumped our bags unceremoniously on the tatami mats, we hurried down to reception to ask directions to Kiyomizu-dera, as it was getting dark rapidly and the temple would close at 6 pm. We located the bus stop outside Daimaru. The bus fare was 120 yen for 6 stops. The interesting thing we observed was that commuters board the bus from the back door, and alight from the front. Payment of the fares is only done when one alights.

My heart was sinking as rapidly as the setting sun when we alighted at the Kiyomizu bus stop. There was less than 1 hour before the temple closed, and it was as dark as 7+ pm back home, meaning we would not get to appreciate the view much. I had visited the temple back in 2004 when the trees were sprinkled with sakura in spring, and had wanted to show Sis the 2 Love Stones there. However, our luck this time was not good. We had to do a very brisk walk through the grounds after the dismal photo-taking and barely saw anything in the dark. What a waste of the entrance fee of 300 yen.

The walk back down the hill was more interesting. The shops were enjoying a brisk business from the stragglers leaving the temple. It had gotten cold quickly over the past hour, and Sis and I ended up munching on hot snacks from each frozen hand. We ended up walking back to Hotel Matsui, taking in the sights along the streets.

Back at the hotel, we were asked by one of the hotel staff if we were Japanese, because according to him, I looked Japanese but Sis didn't. ^_^ After the leisurely long soak in the indoor bath, we ended up watching a variety programme on tv where young children were filmed going on errands on their own. A few of the stories told by their parents were so touching that we couldn't help tearing silently. *Sniff*

The next morning saw us out early with an agenda: to visit another shrine and Gion, the traditional street where maiko (geisha apprentices) still live. However, we were distracted by something happening at Daimaru: rush for 福袋 (fukubukuro) ! Lucky/Fortune bags are traditionally available at New Year's; bags would be filled with mystery items from the respective shops and be sold at lower prices than the usual total sum of all the items. Being broke by now, we could only gape at the 5000 - 10000 yen fortune bags sold at Daimaru. Along the streets, shops were extolling the values of their various fortune bags. Sis could not take it anymore and succumbed to a 1000 yen Revlon fukubukuro. I was greatly tempted by the fukubukuro of the adidas shop (the bag was a black duffel bag for the men and a pink one for the ladies! Inside were sports tops and a pair of shoes!) but it was way. Too. Expensive.

After fighting off temptation for several streets, we finally reached Gion Shimbashi. Immediately, my stress level dropped several notches. Though it was but a small area, it was charming in its unpretentiousness and natural scenery. Weeping willows drooped wistily along the streets and river banks. Mandarin ducks paddled leisurely in the river. Noise was minimal. We saw someone dressed like a maiko (refer to picture below), but weren't sure if she was a real maiko, or even a "she", as there was a photographer trailing her and she seemed to be cam-whoring. She did attract a sizeable crowd of Caucasians though.

When we were done snapping photos of the maiko and doing last-minute shopping, it was time to hurry back to our hotel to collect our belongings and head for the Shinkansen to our next destination: Shin-Osaka.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Spring came early for Sis (31 Dec 2007 - 1 Jan 2008)

It was snowing in a light flurry the morning we left our Sapporo Youth Hostel for the train station. We had a lovely fattening breakfast at the donuts cafe within the station then did a dash to the train (with the very romantic name Twilight Express) after lingering too long in the station's store selling Hokkaido cheesecakes and other assorted and also fattening goodies.

After settling down in our cabins, I noticed a guy at the end of the corridor who looked slightly dishy (handsome from far, far from handsome??) and reported him to Sis. For the remainder of the day, Sis was seen in various positions trying to catch sight of him whenever he walked by our cabin.

Dinner was a horrible bento box; I'm sure it would have been delicious to the locals, but it was too foreign for our palates, and between the two of us, we only finished half of it and threw the rest away. We then topped up our tummies with more cheesecakes and sweets. After several hours of gentle rocking, we gradually got drowsy and retired to our bunk beds early (i.e. 11+ pm, as compared to 1+ am in Tokyo). Unfortunately, as just I was drifting off, I had an encounter of the third kind, and was jolted awake just before midnight. I stayed alert listening for sounds, but all I heard were "Happy new year!" from people in the corridor. After ascertaining all was well again, I managed to drift off again. Throughout the night, we were awoken by the train jerking occasionally along the tracks and once it stalled for a particularly long while. Sis and I speculated that the disruption was due to heavy snow.

Breakfast was served in the dining carriage. We should have opted for the western set instead of the Japanese set, as the latter had fish again. I told Sis then that the fish I ate on the Twilight Express was more than the amount I'd consumed in the last 20 years. Back in our cabin after breakfast, there came an announcement over the PA system that the train was delayed by 3 hours and would reach Kyoto at 3 in the afternoon. With so much time and nothing to do, we soon fell asleep again, to "make up for the lost sleep in Tokyo", as Sis joked.

The interesting part of the ride only came while we were washing our hair in the nearby sink (and trying to prevent our heads from ramming into the tap whenever the train jerked violently). Sis's eye candy came in to "play cards with us" but instead started to hit on Sis. :p

"Do you have boyfriend?" he asked very directly. Through our conversation with him in a mixture of English and Japanese, we found out that he knew a bit of Japanese Sign Language, was currently studying social work in a college and would be working in an elder care home after graduation. He was in Hakodate and Sapporo the same evenings that we were there! What a coincidence! After securing a tour in Osaka the evening that we would be there, Sis had to subtly chase him out on the pretext of packing our luggage for disembarkation at Kyoto Station.

However he couldn't stay away, and came by again to chat with us before we left. A round of photo-taking led to a manic frenzy when we realised the train had stopped at Kyoto Station and we were galvanised into action, grabbing our heavy bags and bumping our ways out of the narrow corridor. Luckily Haru (yes, that's his name and it means Spring, hence the title of this post) was there to help cart the bags onto the platform. As we waved bye to him from the platform, we were panting both from relief and from exhaustion. It was then time to make use of the remaining daylight to reach Hotel Matsui and to head to Kiyomizu-dera (Kiyomizu temple).

Tuesday, January 08, 2008

The Journey to Sapporo (29 - 31 Dec)

Hachinohe (八戸) - Apple Town, as we nicknamed it. It was no surprise as Hachinohe is located in Aomori (青森) prefecture, known for its apples. It was a grey, chilly, drizzly day (apparently it rained the whole day in other parts of nearby Japan as well). We hopped onto the bus expecting it to take us to the local shopping centre, Lapia. However, it stopped at the local marketplace. Instead of spending our 5 hours happily trying on clothes before the train ride to Hakodate, we wandered among apple products. Apple tea. Apple sweets. Apple chips. Apple gum. Apple caramel. Apple toys, even. We were greatly amused by the assortment in front of us.



When we got to Hakodate (函館), it was dark. Story of our lives. Nice Day Inn (9-11 Otemachi, from the west exit of Hakodate station) wasn't easy to locate, and we had to enlist the help of a Japanese couple who was holidaying and spoke good English to find out where Otemachi, "opposite Hotel Kokusei", was. When we finally slid open the door to the house, there was no one around. We chose a room then dumped our bags on the floor. Looking at the bunk beds with the futons and blankets piled on top, we haphazardly threw layers upon layers, thinking it didn't matter as we were only staying a night. Well, it did matter when we finally met Saito-san.

"Later, I will make your beds for you," she stated after showing us the map of Hakodate. Upon hearing that we had already made the beds, she threw us a narrowed-eyed look with a wry smile and picked up a small notice on the desk that printed clearly "I will arrange your beds for you." We could only give her sheepish grins as apology.

The famous Hakodate Ropeway was closed; we had missed the closing time by about 15 minutes and it would be closed the next day for New Year holidays. What bad luck! The only thing left to do was to hunt for food in the quiet town. It was only the next morning that we saw how close the mountains were, as if they were just down the street. We did not even have time to explore the nearby Beer Hall, where Saito-san volunteers every morning after her morning walk. Instead, we had to pack up and waddle to the station under the weight of all our bags, with Saito-san accompanying us as far as the morning market. The next time I'm in Hakodate, I would definitely stay in Nice Day Inn again.



Sapporo Youth Hostel (〒060-0806 3-1, Kita 6-jo Nishi 6-chome, Kita-ku, Sapporo) was way easier to locate than Nice Day Inn, but the journey there was made more challenging due to the ice and slush on the pavements. We got a whole dorm room to ourselves, and wasted no time in going down to the basement for a much-needed laundry session.

After Sis complained of starvation at 3 pm, we finally headed down to Otaru (小樽), about 30 mins away from Sapporo. I first came to know of the existence of Otaru through the high school anime Lovely Complex, where the characters took a day trip there and had a fun time riding in the trishaws and shopping for bear curry.

Unfortunately it was dark by the time we reached JR Otaru station, and looking for the Otaru Canal (Otaru Unga) was a task, coupled with the sleek ice on the ground. When we finally found the canal though, it looked so forbidding in the dark that I gave up wanting to explore. Instead, we headed to the main part of town, where we discovered charming little stores selling exquisite glass products and orgels (music boxes), and music box melodies wafted along the streets through strategically placed speakers on the sides of buildings.

Due to the New Year holidays, most of the shops and museums were closed, and sightseeing was out of the question with the blanket of darkness. It was with regret that we decided to return to Sapporo.



It was 8+ in the evening in Sapporo when we got back from Otaru. Just the right amount of darkness to admire the fairy-light spectacular of the 27th Sapporo White Illumination at Odori Park! It's an annual light-up along 8 blocks outside Odori Park Station West exit. We skittered along the ice precariously trying to get to the Sapporo Tower, which seemed to be a replica of the Tokyo Tower which in turn is a replica of the Eiffel Tower. After 40 mins or so, which felt way longer, my fingers could no longer operate my camera without pain. It was then I realised that the temperature was an icy 1.6 degree celsius! Time to head back to our hostel for a soak in the indoor bath.


Monday, January 07, 2008

Tokyo (25 - 28 Dec) Part 2

The feel and mood of DisneySea was vastly different from Disneyland. The attractions and rides weren't as cutesy and kiddy as Disneyland, and even the shopping wasn't as enticing. Or perhaps I say that coz I have already visited 2 Disneylands and wasn't as easily taken in as the previous times by the array of goodies. Sis and I took some time to warm up to the rides, and even less time to cam-whore. We managed to catch a touching good-vs-evil water "fight" between a sea dragon and a lady of the waters at BraviSEAmo! at the Mediterranean harbour, and the closing fireworks.



Due to some trouble with 新幹線 (Shinkansen) tickets, we had to cancel 1 night in Sapporo. I stayed up till 1.30 am looking for accommodations online in Hakodate for Sat night, and had to wake up at 4.15 am to get to Tsukiji Fish Market, which I had missed out on previously. However, by the time we got there in a bleary haze, the market activities had already ended! We thought of having breakfast at one of the shops near the market, but after queuing for an hour, we decided to forego it and go forage for sustenance elsewhere. The early morning wind was so chilly that I had to put on my leather gloves for the walk to the subway.




We then made our way to Asakusa by the Ginza line to see the Sensoji temple in the midst of New Year preparations. We found a yummy hot snack in the form of a pumpkin agemanju near the temple, after sampling a traditional candy on a stick halfway through the street. Sis wanted to try her hand at reading her fortune by shaking a chopstick out of a tin. Hilarity ensued, when she asked me while tying her fortune slip onto a stand, "If I tear this, does it mean..." and at that very moment, she ripped the slip into 2! Her expression was priceless, and from her accounts, my expression mirrored hers as well.



As Sis wanted to look for a gadget, we headed to Akihabara (which was a tongue-twister for her at first, much to my amusement), which is famous for its range of electronic goods. This is where the Otakus hang out, apparently.



After Akihabara, we headed for Uniqlo at Shinjuku for a quick shopping fix before looking for Keiko at one of the many exits that Shinjuku has. Guess who her new bf was? Tomoaki, from the Japan Men's team! In fact, I spotted him first before seeing the person whose hand was attached to his. They brought us to a hotel in the Shinjuku area, but not before getting lost, even with GPS.




After dinner, we proceeded to Tokyo Tower amidst the cold drizzle. Tomoaki was so thoughtful; he popped into a convenience store along the way and bought 2 umbrellas plus hot cans of coffee for us.

Tokyo Tower was beautiful at night; however the cold marred our enjoyment of the sight. We took the obligatory photos and then scuttled back to the station to head for home. We arrived home, cold and wet, prompting Tomoyuki to ask in concern, “大丈夫?” (daijyoubu, meaning "Are you alright?")



It was great catching up on Japan floorball news with Keiko. There were a few surprises we heard during dinner, with people getting married and/or pregnant. "Baby boom", as Keiko put it.


Saturday, January 05, 2008

Winter in Japan (again)

Backpacking around Japan in winter is no walk in the Yoyogi park. Sis and I were there for 11 days over the Christmas and New Year seasons. I shall endeavor to bring you the highlights and adventures of our grueling trip over the next few posts and hope you come to see why we love Japan.

Tokyo (25 - 28 Dec): Part 1


After 4 hours of trying to get to Yoyogi Youth Hostel, Sis and I dumped our bags outside the rooms of the NUS floorballers (or so we thought), and set off to shop. Little did we know that I had gotten the room numbers completely wrong, and that we had left our bags outside some stranger's room!

While trying to get to Harajuku to meet Bin, Sis and I walked through the grounds of Meiji Jingu and got to enjoy the scenery without the mad jostle of a New Year crowd, as I did the previous time I was there. After an extremely long while, the shrine finally released us into the gothic streets of Harajuku, where we witnessed cosplayers in action.


We also went into the Snoopy shop from across the Harajuku station, and then went in search of the crepes that Harajuku is famous for. We bumped into a few of the floorball people occasionally. When evening fell, Bin brought us back to the hostel so that we could shower and be off to our next stop - Fuda station, on the Keio line, to meet Tomoyuki.



Our hosts for the first 4 days in Japan were Tomoyuki and his wife Maki. Tomoyuki's my friend from floorball since 2004, and I had previously met his then-girlfriend when I went to Japan in 2005. Now, we were to live with them in their new house (they got married in Feb). I nicknamed Maki "the Perfect Japanese woman"; she seemed to be the virtuous lady that ancient China used to exalt, who can cook and juggle work while still being ultra-feminine. 2 years on, she was still perfect! She got home from work, then miraculously produced a 2-course meal, complete with sprigs of mistletoe on the fried chicken wings.

Tomoyuki had presents for us all, causing Sis and I to be embarrassed to have overlooked their gifts due to the hectic rush at work before flying over. When he passed Maki her gifts, she twinkled at him so sweetly that Sis and I concentrated on finishing our food and tried to dim the light from our lamp posts.



Tickets into Studio Ghibli didn't come by easy. Sis got ours in Aussie, while I managed to get Nick's in Hong Kong. Ghibli: "Home" of Hayao Miyazaki, the animator who produced classics like My Neighbour Totoro, Spirited Away, The Cat Returns, and most recently, Howl's Moving Castle. Cameras were not allowed in the museum unfortunately, so we could only take photos in the open areas like the roof-top garden. The museum itself was a treasure trove of secrets. Personally, I went crazy in the museum shop. Nick had to physically restrain me from returning for more goodies after I blew S$200 on various knick-knacks. I recommend anyone going to Tokyo to try to purchase entrance tickets. You will fall for the place even if you are not a kid. However, you have to buy the tickets 3 months in advance so do plan well!




There was a special guest who came home with Tomoyuki that night. For a few minutes, I forgot his name as he pointed to me and stated coolly “忘れた!
(You forgot!)” Luckily for me, I recalled his name just before we sat down to dinner - Kikuchi! He was still as cheeky as before, spouting hip-hoppish slang in his Super Mario overalls.

Halfway through dinner, Sis air-boxed me with a "Bish!" Immediately Maki picked it up and repeated it with a smile, "Bish!" They all seemed to find the onomatopeia rather funny, and repeated it several times. Tomoyuki and Kikuchi then taught us that the way to react to jokes in the Japanese fashion was to hit the other person's shoulder with the back of your hand and go “なんであね!(Nandeane!)” or “あほか!(Ahoka!)”, meaning something like "you idiot!"

Dinner was delicious udon, cooked by an ill Maki down with a cold. Tomoyuki challenged me to pare an apple and a pear for dessert, and they were amused by the way I held the knife. Kikuchi and Tomoyuki had to show me several times how to do it. Apparently Japanese people don't eat the skin of their fruits. Tomoyuki was puzzled as to why I could not even pare a fruit and offered the nugget of information that "All Japanese women MUST cook", to which I retorted, "In Singapore, men cook for their wives", thinking of newly-wedded Dale.

After dinner, Kikuchi and Tomoyuki brought us to a nearby sento for our first bath this trip. Having hopped into the car hurriedly, we forgot to bring along any cameras and hence, couldn't take any shots of the beautiful onsen. Sis was ecstatic at the outdoor bath, but this being her first public bath, we were rather shy with each other. ^_*



Hong Kong

Photos from the HK trip TWO months ago.

What I loved most were the rides! W00t!! Had to spend like 20 mins persuading Eve to come along for each ride. She had to be dragged kicking and screaming and whimpering and sweating into the seats but once the rides were over, she would look at me with puppy eyes and ask, "Wanna go again??"

...

Various rides. Note: we were cheapos, taking photos of the photos taken of us.









Claud, me and Eve, the 3 Brokebackers! I think we were on top of Victoria Peak.



With the Mister and the kids. He's, like, a legend you know?



On top of Victoria Peak, with the city lights spread out below us. Couldn't have survived without my fleece jacket. Brr!



A really lovely restaurant cottage



Lan Kwai Fong, after Victoria Peak. Was too sleepy by then to take better photos.



'Twas Halloween celebrations at Disneyland.



Bev was a bit miffed at the sunlight. See Phil behind pointing to the cam.



Sleeping Beauty's Castle, the backdrop to the parades.



Quaint cottage



Along the streets...



The 3D spectacular! We returned 3 - 4 times for the special effects.



The sunnies needed for the 3D effect. We were in our favourite 2nd row hehe.



The shops at night.



The carousel! We went once in the day and once at night.



Horse? Check. Princess? Check. Where's the Prince??



Ocean Park was also having Halloween celebrations. I didn't know Halloween was so big in HK.



The escalator was sooo high that we had the time to take 3 tries before getting this shot.



A beautiful calm view of the sea from one of the rides.



Dolphin show. Never knew they could slice through the water that fast!



The Great Pumpkin that ate the 3 of us.



At the end of an exhilarating cable car ride, reminiscent of our complimentary trip at Harbourfront back in 2005.